| Dunedin railway station |
We were up early the next day, and we headed out into the city late morning. We drove through the middle of the city centre which was really nice, and then struggled to find a parking space! The city seemed quite buzzing for a week day, in comparison to other cities we have visited which seemed fairly quiet. We got one eventually and then went into the Otago Museum, it was really interesting and we ended up spending 2 hours in there, which didn't leave us a lot of time to wander into the centre as we only had a 3 hour ticket. But we walked briskly into town, got stuck behind a faux funeral procession, who were students protesting against the use of fossil fuels.. Interesting, but we carried on whizzing round town, went down the road to get a picture of ’the most pictured building on the South Island’ (apparently), the railway station. It is a beautiful building. I quickly tried to find somewhere to send a postcard to my Grandparents that I’d written back in Wellington, but to no avail! Every time I have needed to post something there are no post boxes in sight! And then we headed back to the car. Dunedin is a very nice city. We got back to the campsite around 2ish and had some lunch, then we went to the beach that was just across the way. It was a lovely hot day for a change, so we enjoyed soaking up the sun a little bit. There were quite a few people in the sea, one girl who’d just got to the beach went straight in no problem, so I thought it couldn't be too cold and dipped my toe in, but it was freezing! Around 4.30, we left the beach and set off for Otago Peninsula again, to actually go to the Royal Albatross Centre and then hope to see some penguins later on. We stopped at Sandfly Bay on the way to see some seals, but there were none. Nice views though. We reached the centre at 5pm, just as it was closing. Annoying! The opening times only said ‘closes 4pm in the winter, 7pm in the summer‘, we are in spring, so it was a guessing game really. We didn't want to get there too early though, so we didn’t have to sit for ages to see the penguins. We just sat in the car, and before long we realised that amongst the hundreds of sea gulls, you would occasionally actually see an albatross glide around before swooping into its colony. It was amazing to see them, they are so elegant and they are absolutely massive, and it was probably once in a lifetime chance to see one. A sea gull looked minuscule in comparison. I got a couple of photos and a few videos, but you can’t really capture the scale of how big they really are. Why pay to see them when you can watch them from the car park! That kept us occupied for an hour anyway, and then around 6.30pm we decided to walk down to the beach and await the penguins. We were better prepared this time, we had two jumpers and a raincoat on, and I had a scarf, but after an hour of waiting, we were frozen through. We were determined to stick it out though, and soon after, people began turning up. We got chatting to a really nice English couple who were from the Cotswolds and knew Aylesbury, Thame, Waddesdon, as the lady had worked in Aylesbury, small world! That wasted some more time. Just after 8pm, some official looking people turned up, which we weren't expecting. After 15 minutes or so, once they’d looked around, they called everyone over for a talk and said they were just volunteers, there is a group of them that take shifts in going up every night to count the penguins. The little talk they gave was very informative, and they told us the exact routine the penguins would go through as they start coming in. It was very exciting! We waited another half an hour, it was almost dark, and then suddenly we saw one penguin come in shore! The rest gather themselves into groups called ‘rafts’ and then come in together. Once a raft came in, they made their way across the beach and then wait at the bottom of the steps up from the beach (which are barricaded off from the public now). It was so incredible seeing wild penguins go about their natural daily routine. I tried to get pictures, but you couldn't use a flash and it was so dark by this point. They wait as more penguins come in to the beach in their rafts, and then after about 10 minutes once they've dried a little, they begin to come up to the mainland and slowly scatter about to make their way to their nests. The nests were everywhere, we had no idea there were that many nests around us, up to 100 the volunteers said. When they had come up to the mainland, they were sharing the ground with us, we had all been told in advance to spread out, crouch down, stay quiet and dead still when this moment came and they start moving to their nests. Two penguins started walking right towards us, and they slowly made their way right in front of us and stopped for a minute! I nearly exploded, they were unbelievably cute. They stretched their little wings and had a clean and they walked right through, it was such a fascinating experience. Totally wild and natural. As more work their ways to their nests, you begin to hear the chicks inside getting very noisy, and in some instances they actually come out of the hole in anticipation of the food they have sat and waited for all day. It got very noisy! The penguins leave before day light in the morning, and don’t come back until dusk. As we got up to walk back to the view point over the beach, two more penguins ran right in front of us! It was just so amazing. It was almost pitch black by this point and we were both frozen and hungry as we’d had no tea. So we worked our way back up to the car and the penguin chicks were so noisy I recorded some of it on my camera. Despite being cold, tired and hungry by this point, it was so worth the 4 hour wait to experience that amazing wildlife. Just before we got in the car I saw a shooting star, and then as we set off we nearly hit a possum (first time I had seen one!). What an incredible day we had. It was almost 10pm when we left, and our campsite kitchen closed at 10 every night (stupid) so we just grabbed a McDonalds on the way home! After that, Phil seemed to lose his marbles and got on the wrong side of the road to get back to the campsite, despite not doing any driving in the USA! It was pretty scary but it wasn't busy, so we got back on track with little problems. I think that shook Phil up a little as he continued to have a shocker when we got back to the campsite, he tried to drive across a bit you can’t drive across, and then sailed past the turning for where we had been parking! Dear oh dear. It had been a long day and we’d not had very much sleep so we just but it down to that and went to sleep!
The next morning we left the campsite, and went to Baldwin Street, the steepest residential street in the world! We were planning on driving to the top and back down, but when we turned onto it, my God that was steep, so we scrapped that idea, parked it at the bottom and walked up! We thought driving in San Francisco was stomach churning, but this was extremely steep. Walking up it made us a little dizzy! But produced amazing views. You would need a big engine and must waste a lot of petrol having to drive up that every day to get home. People use the street to run up and down to keep fit! We stopped at the top for a while to catch our breath, and a guy who had ran up and down a few times in the time it took us to walk up started talking to us, and he turned out to be the Guinness world record holder of running up and down the street the most times! Every day he does it, several times, he must have the best lungs on the planet to handle that. After we were done there we got on our way to The Catlins. The Catlins is a big forest park and our campsite was nestled in the middle of it. It was very tranquil and green, and we were also still very close to the coast. We were so tired we decided not to do anything that day and just recuperate for the afternoon. After a few hours we got pretty bored though, McLean Falls was only 3km up the road so we went up there and walked to the falls. It was an impressive one! There was a big rock platform right in front of the main fall, but the path stops before that and you have to climb up if you want to get there. So we clambered up the side of the waterfall, me in flip flops, to get to the upper platform! I struggled in parts, which made amusing viewing for Phil, but we made it to the top! Little bit of raw rock climbing done! That tired us out even more so we just chilled for the rest of the evening, decided we would sleep in the tent as it had been dry all day, but it was still a cold night.
| The beautiful Southland coast along The Catlins |